Chipboard, MDF, Plywood — What's the Difference and Which Is Better
A plain-language guide to furniture materials: how chipboard, MDF, and plywood differ, when to use each, and what to check when ordering.
When you order a kitchen or wardrobe, the manager will inevitably ask: "MDF or chipboard?" — and most people go blank. Here is a definitive breakdown of what these materials are, how they differ, and what actually matters when choosing.
Chipboard — The Most Common Material
Chipboard (also called particleboard) is made from large wood chips bonded under pressure. In furniture it almost always appears as melamine-faced chipboard (MFC): the same board with a melamine film laminated on both faces in wood, stone, or solid-colour decors.
- 20–40% cheaper than MDF
- Plenty strong enough for cabinet carcasses and storage units
- Wide range of colours and textures
- Vulnerable to moisture on unprotected edges — edge banding is essential
- Not suitable for routing or curved shapes
For carcasses (side panels, bases, shelves) chipboard is a perfectly sound choice. Most kitchens in Europe are built on MFC carcasses 16 or 18 mm thick.
MDF — Better for Doors
MDF (Medium Density Fibreboard) is made from fine wood dust pressed at high pressure. The result is a dense, uniform, grain-free panel with no voids or unevenness.
- Ideal for painting: the surface is smooth and takes paint evenly
- Can be routed — profiles, grooves, and decorative patterns are all possible
- Holds screws well even at the edge (chipboard crumbles at edges)
- Heavier and more expensive than chipboard
- Also susceptible to sustained moisture
MDF is the material of choice for cabinet doors, especially painted or routed ones. The carcass is still made from chipboard — that combination gives the best price-to-quality ratio.
If someone offers you a "fully MDF kitchen", ask exactly what parts are MDF. An MDF carcass is unnecessary extra cost with no real benefit. MDF belongs on the doors.
Plywood — When You Need Real Strength
Plywood is made from thin veneer sheets glued with alternating grain directions. This cross-ply construction gives it high bending strength and good moisture resistance, especially in exterior-grade (WBP) or interior moisture-resistant grades.
- Stronger than chipboard or MDF at the same thickness and weight
- Holds fixings reliably even at the edge
- Better moisture resistance (exterior-grade plywood)
- More expensive and harder to machine cleanly
- Used in workshops, shelving, children's beds, and wherever structural reliability matters
Plywood is less common in mass-market furniture — it costs more and is harder to process. It does appear as back panels in premium cabinetry (instead of thin HDF), and in high-end kitchen carcasses.
Material Comparison
| Chipboard / MFC | MDF | Plywood | |
|---|---|---|---|
| Price | Low | Mid | Mid–high |
| Strength | Adequate | Good | High |
| Moisture resistance | Low | Low | Mid–high |
| Paintability | Poor | Excellent | Good |
| Routing | No | Yes | Limited |
| Typical use | Carcasses | Doors | Shelving, structural parts |
What to Choose for a Kitchen
The optimal kitchen looks like this: MFC carcass 16–18 mm, MDF doors (painted or PVC-wrapped), postforming or engineered-stone worktop. This is the standard used by most manufacturers.
On a tight budget, MFC doors are a reasonable choice — less attractive visually but practical and cheap to replace. For a painted or routed finish, only MDF will do.
The key principle: saving money on the carcass (chipboard) is fine. Saving money on hardware is not. Cheap hinges and runners will ruin the experience of any kitchen.